Like most women, I wore the wrong bra size for much of my life. I was never taught how they were supposed to fit so if I could get my girls in and the band wasn’t too tight, then I thought everything was fine. I finally got a professional fitting and it made such a difference that I decided that I would never again wear a “close enough” bra. Still, I had to try on 15-20 bras whenever I went shopping; if I was lucky, 3 of them would fit.
Like most RTW clothing, different companies have different slopers and they’re based on an idealized breast shape. But breasts come in many different shapes and that made bra shopping just plain unpleasant for me.
Enter my boundless curiosity.
I decided to throw caution to the wind and make my own bras. This idea has been floating around the blogosphere for a while, so there are now LOTS of resources to help with fitting and construction – not to mention inspiration. Some of my favorites are Cloth Habit’s Bra Making Sewalong, Emerald Erin (I joined her Bra A Week Challenge to keep me motivated), Miss Maddy Sews, Sigrid Sewing Projects and Very Purple Person.
Armed with Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy Class and my copy of Demystifying Bra Construction, I set out to make a well fitting bra that I’ll be able to replicate in infinite fabric combinations. Ambition can be a double-edged sword. Seriously.
So here’s my bra toile so far. I used the Pinup Girls Classic Bra pattern because it’s a basic, full coverage bra. It also helps that Beverly uses this pattern in the Craftsy class. The frame is muslin, the cups are a mystery knit material from my stash that has very little stretch and the back band is powernet. It looks a mess here (I’m a D or DD; my form is a B cup and I didn’t pad her out), but the fit was so close to perfect that I almost wept.
The cups need some fine tuning but the band and the underwires fit perfectly.
Once I get my cups to fit properly, I’ll start working on the actual bra. I forgot to take pictures of my fabric and findings, but they’ll be in a future post.