French Jacket Muslin

In my last post, I talked about the beginning of my French Jacket. Now let’s talk about the muslin.

First, I know you’re supposed to make a muslin for just about everything, but generally I don’t unless the garment is fitted. I guess I’d rather just make adjustments to the garment. But in this case, I wanted to do everything by the book so I went ahead and made it. And I’m so glad I did.

Anyhow, here’s are some pics. It’s super overcast here right now, so this is the best I could do – and these are with the flash.

Front:

IMG_8877

Back:

IMG_8882

Another picture of the back. I have no idea why this one came out so much lighter.

IMG_8881

You may be wondering why she only has one arm. Well she had two arms originally, but the sleeve caps needed so much ease that I took both of them out. This was my third attempt to get the sleevecap to fit. On the inside, the cap is pushed in about 3/4 inch past the suggested seam allowance. I’m not sure why this happens, but one day I’m going to devote a few hours to figuring out the whole armscye/sleeve cap mystery. I’m with Kathleen Fasanella and her “Sleeve cap ease is bogus” post. The more I sew, the more I think that the pattern companies only use one sleeve sloper for pretty much every garment.

I cut a size 12 and naturally I had to make some changes. The first thing I changed was adding length to the sleeves. I’m not a big fan of bracelet length jackets so I wanted to extend the sleeves to my wrist. I added 2 inches, but I still need to add another 1-1/2 – 2 inches. Second, I have a swayback so there was a big bubble in the back of the jacket. If you look at the second picture, the back darts are much closer together than they were originally. I took about 1-1/2″ out at the curve of my back and and tapered it to the bottom and top of the center back seam. Surprisingly I didn’t have to do an FBA because there’s so much ease. The last change I want to make (and I forgot to do it on the muslin) is add 2 inches at the center back bottom. According to Leisa at A Challenging Sew, it visually elongates your torso. As I’m 5’5″, I’ll take any visual elongating I can get.

The next step is to fine tune the fit and then I start cutting.

I’m also working on Vogue 8787 which is another challenge since I don’t really sew knits. The last knit dress I made was a white, knee length dress with a loooooong zipper. It was a massive disaster, but I wore it anyway because it was the first thing I made. I’ve come a long way since then, but zippers + stretch fabric still makes me very nervous, but I now know to stabilize the zipper area so this one should be much better.

xoxo,

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